Razertip Pyrography Systems and Pens - Razertip Woodburning Systems and Pens

Everything you always wanted to know about Razertip pyrography tools, pen uses, care, answers to all your questions and more. If I haven't answered your questions, please contact me.

Most of the information contained in this tutorial can be applied to most brand of detail pens but if you do not have a Razertip (or Optima burner), please be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions for cleaning the pens.   

Care and feeding of your Razertip brand pyrography tools

If you own a Razertip woodburner you have come to the right place for help. 

I use and sell the Razertip pyrography tools and pens so that's what I am going to discuss here but the same information also applies to many other brands of pyrography tools.  First, let me start off by saying that the Razertip, Nibsburner and Optima  brand of pens have polished tips and do not need annealing before use. It is unnecessary and not recommended. Just open them up and burn away.

The Razertip are made from a highly polished nickel/chromium alloy that is designed to flow smoothly over the wood and require less cleaning. These tips need very special care to preserve the finish and ensure its life. Although most brands of tips are made from a nichrome alloy, not all are the exact same proportions of nickel and chromium or processed in the same way. Some pens that are not polished will require cleaning more often than those that are polished. If you are using Razertip or similar pens, you should probably only need to clean the pens once a day if burning at a moderate temperature on wood without resin or pitch. If you are burning at a high temperature on wood such as pine (not safe really) or on gourds and leather, you might need to clean your pens more frequently.  When your burning starts looking muddy or the pen is starting to drag, its time to clean!

The photo shows the Razertip fixed-tip pens which is primarily what I carry. The photo on top is the standard (F) handpiece and the bottom is the heavy-duty (HD) handpiece. Although it doesn't show up well in the photo, both styles are vented.  Notice that the connection at the end of the pen is different than most burners manufactured in the USA. It can be used on most major brands of burners with a different cord or adaptor although a cord is the recommended option.

Having a clean tip is essential for good burning. A build-up of carbon and other materials will hinder heat transfer and cause the pen to skip on the wood while burning. The ideal method of cleaning the polished tip wood burning pens is to use the cleaning tool made by Razertip or use aluminum oxide and strop it on leather or the hone strop described below.

If you care for the tips properly, they will last for years!

Happy Burning ©!

This page was last updated 5/7/12

Proper Care and Use of Razertip Pyrography Tools and Tips: 

Razertip polished tips do not need annealing before use. It is unnecessary and NOT recommended to use any annealing process. Just open them up and burn away.

If you can turn the burner down and still do the job do it!  Your tips will last longer, you'll have more control, you'll get a cleaner burn, your tip wont build up carbon up as quickly, and its cooler on the fingers. The other advantage to burning at a lower temperature is that you will have more control over your burning!

NEVER use abrasive sand papers, etc. to clean fine detail pens!!!!

If you have a question that I haven't answered here, please contact me.

Frequently asked questions:

Q: What is the difference between the SK Single Output burner and the SSD-10 Dual Output burner?

A: This i an excellent question. There are two major differences and one that is something a lot of people don't even think about.

1. The obvious difference is that the single only has one pen output and the dual has two. What this means is that on the dual output burner you can plug in two pens (one on either side) at one time and then you only have to flip a switch to change from one pen to the other
2. The SSD-10 also comes with what Razertip refers to as a "low end adjustment" inside the burner so you can insert a small screwdriver and adjust the temperature up or down. This is good if you are either working on a low setting and it's too hot or using a higher setting and it's not hot enough.
3. The third and not so obvious benefit with the dual outputs (especially those I sell) is that you can have one side set up with an HD cord and the other side with a STD cord. Why is this helpful? Well, let's say you are using an HD cord with an HD pen such as a shader. Typically you will have the heat set a bit higher so when you switch to a standard pen, such as a writing tip, without reducing the heat the pen tip will then become poker hot. So, by having one side set up with a standard cord and one side with a heavy-duty cord you avoid the hassles of having to remember to change the heat setting when you change change from an HD to Std pen or visa versa.

Q: My tips are not getting hot but the light on the burner is on or flickering what can the problem be?

A: Most often the problem is the cord. Here are some trouble-shooting things to try:

• The first thing you want to do is ensure that the cord is connected tightly at both ends and is gently pushed in all the way. This is one of the most common things I hear and the easiest problem to solve in most cases. If it is and the pen is still not getting hot it could be the cord. 
• If you have a 2nd cord try that one and see if it works. If it doesn't try plugging the pen directly into the burner and see if it heats up. If the pen gets hot then you know you have a problem with the cord. If the burner is relatively new it should be covered under the manufacturer's warranty and you should contact them for a replacement. If it is an older cord you can purchase a new one from my website on the Razertip pyrography system page.
• The next thing to try is to flip the cord so that the end you had plugged into the burner is now plugged into the pen. See if the connection is tighter and solves the problem.
• If these do not solve the problem contact Razertip to discuss it with them. If the pen is defective it will be replaced at no charge if it is under warranty.

Q: If most of the wood burning pens are made from a nichrome alloy why and how is there a difference?

A:  There are a lot of different 'Nichrome' alloys made, and different annealing/hardness options for each one, so each company may use a slightly different material. The difference is also in how they make their tips. Every company uses a different process for finishing their tips so the finish will vary from company to company. Some companies only offer polished tips and some offer unpolished and polished. The polishing process also varies with each company. The more highly polished involves a lot more work. 

I started out using a Colwood woodburner and the original unpolished tips many years ago and found that they grabbed the wood and required more frequent cleaning. I also struggled with trying to improve my burning techniques but became very frustrated at being "stuck" in a rut and not being able to get past it. It was not until someone recommended Razertip and Optima pens that I saw the wonders of how great polished tips were and how much I could improve my techniques just by changing from an unpolished tip to a polished tip. 

Polished tips burn smoother without grabbing the wood, remain clean longer and are easier to clean.  This is not just my hype to sell the pens I sell, it's a proven fact. Just ask anyone who has tried two similar style pens, one unpolished and one polished and they will probably tell you the same thing. 

Q: There are so many pens to choose from how do I know what to buy to get started?

A:  Over the years I have always recommended people start with just 3 pens: a shader, writer and a round-heeled knife. With these three tip styles you can do just about anything. When I started using and selling Razertip burners and pens over 6 years ago they made some pens for me based on my requirements and specifications. Those have become my favorite pens and are now best sellers.  They include my all time favorite the HD5MP/HD5MSP bent spear shader, the ball stylus, #9S, #14D. While every artist has their favorites here are the pen styles I usually recommend:

Shaders: HD5MP or HD5MSP. These are the most versatile shaders I have found. Because of their shape they can get into the tightest spots. I use the HD5MP for 95% of what I do, including fine detail work, fur, feathers, hair, undercutting, etc. I'm for versatility rather than buying a "single-use" tip style.

Writers: F9P, F9S, F99.008, F99.015. These were designed based on my specifications and I have found to be the most versatile and the best overall performance. The ball stylus will glide more smoothly over the wood than the #9 writing tips but both styles are very useful. It is like skating on ice!

Round-heeled knives: F14M, F14D, HD14SM. Again, I like these for their versatility. Unlike flat skews, the round-heel makes them more maneuverable for doing curved lines but they also do a great job on straight lines.

My feeling is that more is not necessarily better. If you can do everything you need to with three pens, why buy more? I am not in this business to sell you things you don't need, it's my goal to help you make sound decisions based on your personal needs and budget. If you have any questions that I have not answered here please feel free to contact me.

Q: Do you actually use Razertip wood burning tools?

A:  Yes, I have been using the Razertip dual output burner for about 9 years...about as long as I have been selling them and I have used and tested every pen I sell. Several of the tip styles Razertip now makes were developed for me based on my specifications and needs. Such pens as: HD5MP and HD5MSP, #9P, #99 ball stylus tips, #14D and others. 

Q: The tips seem to be loosing heat while I'm burning. What am I doing wrong?

A: It is normal for the tips to loose heat as you are working unless you allow the tip to reheat as you see the "color" of the burning lighten. You just need to lift the tip briefly from the wood allowing the tip to reheat then start again. If you are trying to burn a line, just make sure you put the pen down just behind where you left off so you don't end up with a small gap from where you stopped and where you start. These variable temperature burners only take a couple of seconds to reheat. So, the bottom line is, you are not doing anything wrong. This is normal and will happen no matter what burner you own.

Q: There are some tip styles I want that you don't carry can you get them for me?

A:  Absolutely!  I will have them drop shipped directly from Razertip and at my discounted prices. 

Q: How do I know when it's time to clean my tips?

A:  While it is not set in stone, a good rule of thumb is when your shading/burning starts to look muddy or you start dragging black carbon, it's time to clean!  If you burn on higher temperatures you will need to clean more frequently. If you burn on materials such as leather and gourds you will also have to clean more frequently. Let your burning be your guide. Unpolished pens do seem to accumulate carbon faster than others even at moderate temperatures. The tips made with a polished nichrome alloy burn cleaner and do not build up carbon as fast when burned at moderate temperatures. 

You will also find that when you burn on certain materials such as leather and gourds or higher temperatures the tips will build up carbon faster as well.

Remember that keeping the tips clean is essential to clean burning and maintaining the life of the tip.  So be sure to clean your tips regularly.

Q: How do I clean my pens?

A: Great question!  I will address the proper procedure for cleaning wood burning pen tips that are polished.  For pen tips that are not polished please be sure to check with the manufacturer for their recommended methods of cleaning the tips.

If your tips are heavily caked with carbon I recommend you start with a single-edged razor or the Razertip tip cleaner and gently scrape off excess carbon. You can do this while the pen is hot or after it has cooled.  For the next step be sure your tip is cool. Once you have cleaned off any excess carbon use a strop (leather or composite) with aluminum oxide powder.

I tend to burn mostly on clean woods that are free of oil so regular cleaning with the strop and aluminum oxide is all I need to keep my tips clean and carbon free. When burning on gourds or leather I start with a single-edged razor. 

How to use the strop and aluminum oxide:

Make sure your tip is cool. Add just a TINY pinch of aluminum oxide to one edge of the strop and run the tip across the powder just a few times, then on a clean area of the strop run the tip over the clean area to remove the remaining powder and gently polish the tip. You need to do this only a few strokes. I then wipe it on my denim jeans (you may want to get a patch of denim to keep on your work area) to clean off excess polish. Remember your really just polishing, so you don't need to try to remove all the discoloration. These tips stay cleaner than many other brands so if you are burning at a moderate temperature on wood you can probably burn longer between cleanings. If you are burning on gourds or leather you will need to clean more frequently. 

If you need extra help cleaning off carbon and using the aluminum oxide and strop don't remove all the carbon, gently scrape it with a straight edged razor. That should remove all excess carbon.

When burning on gourds, leather and certain woods you will probably have to clean the tips more frequently. 

Remember that proper cleaning maintains the life of the tips, makes burning easier and your finished burning cleaner and keeps them in factory-new condition. If you clean the tips regularly you will not have much difficulty maintaining them.

Q:  How often should I sharpen my tips, and what should I use to do it with?

A:  Usually, only once or twice a year depending on usage. An overnight soak in oven cleaner can sometimes take off heavy carbon deposits, but be careful that you do not soak the brass or silver solder (read the directions for your oven cleaner to see what metals it will safely clean). To determine if your tip needs to be sharpened or "re-honed", examine your tips under a magnifying glass. If the edge of the tip looks rounded or there is not a well defined angle, you could probably re-sharpen the tip. BTW, over buffing (using a "leather power strop" wheel for example) will prematurely lead to the metal "rolling over" the edge, causing your tip to get kind of a rounded edge. To sharpen your pen, use a fine stone, (or if need be, 800 or higher grit wet and dry sand paper). Sharpen your pen tips at a 30 to 35 degree angle. Do NOT sharpen them at a sharper angle, as you will then carve too deep, and have problems in the painting stage of your carvings. After sharpening polish with the aluminum oxide polishing compound on a strop.

Q:  Do I need to anneal my pens?

A:  Some brands do recommend it but you should NEVER turn your power supply on high to "anneal" pens with polished tips. This will just lead to premature oxidation, and may damage some of the smaller standard style tips. My pens are ready to use right out of the plastic tube.

Q: My tip is a bit too sharp and needs to be bent a bit more. Can I do it myself?

A: Yes, you can.  If you want to "modify" a pen, such as the Bent Spear shader, you would need to buff the lower edge of each tip so that it is rounder using a felt buffing wheel and buffing compound. You can then re-bend the tip angle using a smooth-jaw pliers. It is best to bend it cold - just be gentle and don't bend too quickly. Despite what some people say, you should NOT bend the tips when they are "poker hot".

Q: How can I make the tips last longer?

A: To make your tips last longer: NEVER use sandpaper of any grit to remove carbon. For best results, longest tip life, reduced carbon build-up, and maximum comfort, always use the lowest heat setting that will do the job. Burning at lower temperatures will keep carbon build-up off of the tip in the first place, and keeps the tips from oxidizing. Put your pens back into their pen tubes after each use, a pen tip hitting the floor is the most common type of tip damage. Stick a small amount of foam or Styrofoam into the pen tube's cap if you are transporting your pen a lot. I have seen these tips last over 10 years, when properly cared for!

Q: What is the difference between the Standard and Heavy-Duty pens, and which style should I get?

A: The "Standard" pens, are for doing ultra fine detailing at lower temperatures, and are not intended for high heat or high mechanical pressure situations. The Standard pen tips use the smallest diameter tip wire available, and are therefore capable of doing finer detailing than any other brand. The Heavy-Duty pens have a larger diameter tip wire, carve a wider line than the standard pens, and can be used to heat carve, notch, and burnish for longer periods of time. The tips are also more durable, and able to take more mechanical pressure. For certain "bent" tips such as the spear shader (HD5MP) I recommend getting a heavy-duty pen, and using a heavy-duty cord. Any burnishing type tip that would be "sinking" a lot of heat to the wood benefits from the heavy-duty cord, even in the standard type of pens. As far as which style to get, it depends on how you are used to carving. If you are a novice, like to heat carve, or intend to use it to notch or gouge, then you should consider the Heavy- Duty style pens. If you are looking to get the finest detail possible, then the standard pen style is what you want.

One important thing to remember is that when you switch from using a heavy-duty pen to a standard pen you will need to turn your heat setting down. 

Q. The tips on some of my pens keep breaking, what am I doing wrong?

A: One of the most common problems I hear about is this!  This is a common problem with people who are heavy handed, new to burning or use too much pressure on the pens, especially if you have been using a single temperature burner and upgrade to a detail burner. Keep in mind that you do not need a death grip on the pen, lighten up on the grip and let the pen do the work. But even if you haven't done any of this and your pen breaks remember it comes with a warranty (Razertip brand burning pens) and even after the warranty runs out you can still have your tip fixed or replaced. 

The other common problem is that many people just burn with the tip rather than the entire edge.  Be sure to use the edge and do not use a lot of pressure. Let the pen do the work.

Q: Should I get interchangeable tips or fixed-tip handpiece?

A: One of the most commonly asked questions. I recommend and sell the Razertip  fixed-tip pens (with few exceptions). Fixed-tip pen operate cooler than interchangeable-tip (BPH) pen . Also, because the tips are welded in, they provide better control for more precise burning. Interchangeable-tip (BPH) pen is designed primarily for intermittent or short-term use. They require regular maintenance to work effectively. Every 6-8 hours of use (or more if the pen is malfunctioning) the wire tip should be removed, cleaned with steel wool or ScotchbriteTM pads, bent at the back of each tip post, and re-inserted so they fit as snug as possible. If your BPH pen is getting hot at the front, it's almost always from a loose or dirty tip connection.  

Thee other reasons I do not recommend interchangeable tips are: They are inconvenient to change and a non-welded tip can have bad intermittent conductive properties between the nichrome tip and the brass carrier. These conditions are high heat, electricity, and two dissimilar metal alloys (a very bad combination for preventing corrosion). Although some brands have friction fitted "brass to brass" connectors, they too will eventually suffer from corrosion, and eventually, have poor intermittent conductive properties. Razertip interchangeable tips are changed by inserting the tip wires into screws and tightening them which can be a nuisance when you have momentum going on a wood burning project. Some brands require that you use a tool to pull them off which can also be a nuisance.  The other consideration is that the Razertip interchangeable tip puts your hand farther away from the tip losing some control over the pen. 

Q: Some of my pens get very hot and burn my fingers?

A:  Because our art form involves using heat to make images and detail, our challenge is always to get as much heat to the tip as possible (good heat) without that same heat building up in the pen and affecting the fingers (bad heat). Every user has different needs and will therefore have a different experience. Posting problems & possible solutions on forums like this are great ways to share information and I am always interested to see the many creative ways people go about overcoming challenges. Razertip has been making burners for over 20 years and are seriously committed to making the best tool possible. Many of the makers of other burners share a similar commitment. Cam and the other people at Razertip know a lot about pens and heat and the physical limitations they encounter in designing their products. As they say, they always have more to learn, and that is one reason why they like to hear from customers directly. Hand piece heating is a much more complex issue than most people realize, and there are many factors that go into how hot your pen gets. 

These are a few suggestions to help ease the pain!

1. Don't hold the pen close to the tip. When holding the pens, move your hand back slightly away from the tip. The closer your hand is to the tip, the hotter it will be.
2. Work at an angle. Try working on a drafting table or one of our pyrography tables. This not only keeps the pen cooler but it is more comfortable and will help prevent carpal tunnel syndrome.
3. Use a pen that is vented.

Here are a few factors concerning the "hot fingers" issue:

1. Power and current. Hot-wire tools are designed to operate with a primary voltage of around 115-117 volts. If your wall voltage is higher (say 120-125 volts), you'll get more heat at the tip. More heat at the tip usually means a hotter pen body. All hot wire burners convert the wall voltage to a lower output voltage. Razertip power supplies drop the voltage to 2 volts or less. Razertip pens are designed to operate at 2 volts or less. Some burners (i.e.: Detail Master and Burn Master etc.) operates at around 3 volts. This gives them more power, but can be problematic for Pen
and cord heat. Razertip pens tend to get quite a bit hotter on the fingers when used on a 3 volt power supply. They perform best on a Razertip power supply. It is generally true that most pens will perform best on their own power supply.

2. Operator technique. Razertip (and I agree) always recommend using the lowest heat setting that will get the job done - in other words, if you can turn the heat down and still do the job, DO IT. In addition, hold your pen at an angle so the heat from the tip can rise into the air, not into the pen body and your fingers. Moving your fingers back a bit from the tip can help sometimes, too.  If you must use high heat settings for long periods, I recommend getting a second pen and switching back-and-forth when one gets uncomfortable. This will be easier on your fingers and on the pen and tip. In the long run it will be less costly as your pens and tips will last longer. Also if you ever damage a tip and need replacement you have a spare to use while the damaged one is being repaired.

3. Operator sensitivity. Some people have very sensitive fingers. The original standard pens some people would complain after a short period of time that the pen was uncomfortable yet other people had no problems.  When Razertip was designing the new vented pens Cam knew he had a winner when his wife (who previously complained about it getting too hot after 12 minutes) was able to burn at higher temperatures than she normally would and was still able to use the pen comfortably after over 40 minutes. Yes, the vented pens can still get hot on the fingers, but they take much longer to heat and they cool very quickly. It is interesting to note that some users, like me, use Razertip pens for long periods without hot pen concerns while others experience discomfort. Another possibility is that I use a lighter touch with my pens and as I tell my students, "you don't need a death grip on the pens". Let the pen do the work, not your hands.

4. Pen/tip design and construction. Razertip has very deliberately chosen the design and material for their pens and tips to give us the best performance possible, taking into account the primary intended use for the tools. Their tools are primarily for finesse and delicate work. The solid-tip burners, such as the Wall Lenk and Walnut Hollow are intended for the heavy work and compliment a hot-wire tool or as refer to them as detail burners. Different tip types heat differently. Tip length is also a factor in pen heat. The longer the tip, the cooler the pen. Razertip makes their tips the length they are because that's what the customers have wanted. They like working close to the burning surface.  They can make tips longer and have done so on request. The thicker grip can help, too (see below for information on removing and replacing the grips). Testing has shown us that cork and closed-cell foam have similar insulative properties, with uncompressed foam performing better than cork.  However, some users grip their pen tighter than others, and in compressing the foam grip, reduce its insulating abilities. If you can loosen your grasp on the grip it may help. Also when grips get old or have been used a lot they flatten out and should be replaced. Most of my customers have indicated that they prefer the foam grips, but if cork works better for you then go for it. One word of caution, whether you use a glove, or cover the pen with something to insulate it: don't let the pen get too hot or you may damage it internally. Give it a regular chance to cool.

5. The pen cord can also make a big difference. Razertip makes a standard (super-flexible) 18 gauge cord for fine work, and a HD 16 gauge cord for heavier work. The HD cord is always your best choice for hotter burning and here's why - When burning, you have to consider two heat factors:  Ambient tip temperature is the temperature of the tip when it's not in contact with the work surface. Working temperature is the temperature of the tip when it is in contact with the work surface (i.e.: wood). When you use a heavier 16 gauge cord it is possible for more electrical current to flow to the tip, resulting in not only more tip heat, but in faster tip heat recovery. In order to burn at, say, 700 degrees operating temperature, you would require an ambient temperature of perhaps 900-1000o with an 18 gauge cord, but only around 750-800o with a 16 gauge cord. The 16 gauge cord will not only perform better, but will result in the pen staying cooler for a longer period. However, it's a bit heavier to hold, and there are times when a slow tip heat recovery is actually desirable (certain shading techniques for example) and an 18 gauge cord is preferred.

6. Ambient air temperature, humidity, and air movement can all affect pen heat. Working in a hot, stuffy room with high humidity, your pen will get hot faster than if you're working in a cool, dry room with a bit of air movement. You might also use a small fan to "pull" air away. Finally, there is always the possibility that there is something wrong with a pen or tip. Contact Razertip directly if in doubt.

7. One way of keeping the pens cooler is to work at an angle such as a slanted table like a drafting table. I also recommend using a cooler temperature and layering until you get the depth of tone you want to achieve. This gives you more control and preserves the life of the pens by not using excessively hot temperatures.

Q: I use a Burnmaster (or Detailmaster) burner and my pens get too hot what can I do?

A: The Burnmaster (and Detailmaster) woodburner operates at 3 volts instead of the 2 volts that most other burners operate at.  This means they have more power (not necessarily good or necessary) and because of that many brands of pens (such as Optima and Razertip, etc.) will get hotter when used with either of these burners.  You can do a number of things to help keep the pens cooler. 

1. Reduce the heat setting on the burner to avoid burning out the pens.
2. Change the cord on the Burnmaster to a Razertip^™ HD# 3 Cord so that you are not using the adaptor in between the cord and the pen.
3. Use a large grip instead of the standard grip.
4. Burn at an angle so that the heat is deflected away from your hand.

Q: How can I remove my old foam grip and replace it?

A: Often you will have to cut the old grip off a heavy-duty pen, The new one is installed by wetting the front of the pen with a bit of soapy water, stretching the hole in the new grip over a pair of needle-nose pliers that have been dipped in soapy water, and then carefully sliding the grip over the pen body. Watch out for the sharp tip! If you're unsure of this operation, Razertip would be glad to install the grip for you if you want to mail the pen back to them. Thick grips on standard pens are much easier to install because the pen body is much smaller.

Q: Can I use a standard cord on an HD pen, or vice-versa?

A: Yes. Any Razertip  cord can be used with any Razertip pen, but best results are obtained with HD pens on HD cords. In fact, any pen will perform better on an HD cord, but some users find the HD cords a bit stiff.

Q: What do you mean when you say they perform better with an HD cord?

A: They heat up quicker and run cooler on the fingers with a HD cord.

Q. My burner won't make a dark mark on wood until its set at "5" or higher? Why?

A. Razertip burners are designed to give a very broad range of heat. The lower half of the dial is used for waxes, or for detailing wood without leaving a brown mark. The top half of the dial provides enough heat to scorch wood. On the SS-D10, you can change the low-end temperature range using a small screwdriver in the low-end adjustment port. If this doesn't solve the problem it could be the transformer or a problem with the cord. Before contacting Razertip try plugging the pen directly into the burner and set it at "5" or higher and test it on a piece of scrap wood. If it is making a "dark mark" then the problem is with the cord. 

Q. Sometimes my burner works great at a certain heat setting, and the next day I have to use a different setting to get the same burn. Why is this?

When the voltage from a wall plug changes, the temperature of the tip will change with it. Razertip  burners are set to perform optimally at their rated voltage. I have seen wall outlet voltages vary by over 20 volts. Wall outlet voltage can change depending on time of day and demand on the system especially in some geographic areas where there is a problem with low voltage. 

Q. How can I make a scale tip using nichrome wire for my Razertip BPH Pen?

I found a great resource for making scale tips.  Making Fish Scale Tips

Q. What is the main difference between the single output and dual output burners?

The power unit is basically the same except for a three major differences: 

1. The dual output allows you to connect two pens at the same time (they cannot be used to burn at the same time) so all you have to do is flip a switch to change pens. 
2. The dual output burner also has a low end setting which basically means that it is what I call a "fine heat adjustment". You can use it to vary the heat range on the main temperature control if it's burning too hot on the low end or too cold on the higher end. 
3. The last difference and to me very important is that you can put a standard handpiece on one side with a standard cord and a heavy-duty pen on the other side with a heavy-duty cord (All my dual output burners come packed with one of each cord for this very reason). The reason this is helpful is let's say you are using a heavy-duty pen (You typically use higher heat with HD pens vs Std pens) on a heavy-duty cord and then switch to a standard pen. If you haven't reduced the setting on the temperature control then the tip of the standard pen will become poker hot and standard pens are not built to work at higher temperatures. So, by using one side as a heavy-duty side and the other as a standard side it takes the guesswork out of remembering if you lowered the heat before changing from an HD pen to a Std pen.

Let's say you are burning something light, such as a portrait where you need a lower heat setting than what you are getting at the lower end of the dial "0" or "1" you can simply adjust the low end setting until you reach the setting that is just right for your needs. Simply insert a small screwdriver in the slot and turn slightly left (cooler) or right (warmer). I usually do this while the burner is on and test it as I make the adjustment so I can get immediate results to determine if it's the right setting.

Broken, damaged or defective burner, cords or fixed-tip?  

Don't worry!  Razertip tips are one of the most durable hot-wire tips you can buy and covered by their unconditional warranty for 1 year. In spite of that, it is possible for them to break or wear out. 

If you have any problem with your pen or burner please contact us first so I can walk you through some steps first.  If I cannot resolve your problem, I will have you contact Razertip before shipping it back to them. Often times they can diagnose the problem over the phone. Their toll-free number is 1-877-729-3787

Re-tipping a Razertip pen:

Razertip will replace broken or worn out tips. Simply slide off the foam grip and mail the pen to us in a small padded envelope or between 2 pieces of thin cardboard. Mail costs should be under a dollar (Canada and US) if you take the grip off. If the pen is less than a year old, tell them so and they will replace the tip at no charge. If it is over a year old, the tip replacement charge for most Razertip pens is only $5.00 and $8.50 for feather Former tips, including any taxes and return postage! Please include payment - check, money order, or credit card information with the pen. Tip replacement requires only one day in their shop (in one day, out the next). Please be sure to mark the package as "damaged or defective merchandise"

Re-tipping any brand of hot-wire tool made

With laser-welding Razertip has the ability to re-tip any brand or make of hot-wire tool made. They offer this service on all brands of pen including Detail Master, Colwood, Nibs, Optima, and any others. The cost for re-tipping of non-Razertip pens is a flat fee of $7.00 - including applicable tax and return shipping by standard mail. And they stand behind the new tip with a full, unconditional 6 month warranty covering everything including your satisfaction. You'll get two day in-shop turnaround and a warranty that's better than the new pen had.

If you have been told to return a burner or pen to Razertip, please ship them to:

Razertip Industries Inc.,

301-9th Street North

P.O. Box 910,

Martensville, SK  S0K  2T0

Canada

1-877-729-3787

Do not send damaged or broken burners, cords or pens to us. 

They must be returned to the manufacturer.

HD5MP Bent Spear Shader

This is my all-time favorite pen and it is the pen I use for just about everything I do. It is pretty versatile and because of its unique shape you can get into tight corners and every nook and cranny and do all kinds of things with this pen.

Other than working with miniatures, this pen can be used for all your shading needs. I prefer this to the round, square and other shape shaders because of its shape. Also, because I use a smooth shading technique, this does a beautiful job of accomplishing that. As with most pens, the trick is going to be in the technique and the landing. Be sure that when you land on the wood your pen is in motion, much like an airplane coming in for a landing.  If the pen lands on the wood then moves you will get what I call, "the dreaded blob". This is one of the most important techniques to learn.

You can also see from the photo on the top right that I have created an "edge" with my shading. This gives the shading a natural look and I do not have to (and should not) outline my work. Another important technique to remember is to blend the shading so it doesn't look like a bunch of brown lines. Notice how smooth the shading looks in the photo. 

The middle photo shows how you can draw lines using the edge of the pen and vary the thickness depending on the angle you hold the pen.

The bottom photo was done using the tip of the pen. Just be sure you do not dig into the wood when you do calligraphy with the tip. The block letter on the right of the sample was outlined using the tip and then shaded inside using it as a shader.  

# 14 Round-Heeled Knife

This pen actually comes in a variety of sizes (small, medium, large, small/medium) and is available in Heavy-Duty and Standard pens. I prefer the HD14SM (show on the left) because it is the most versatile so I don't need to have more than one round-heeled knife. My philosophy has always been more is not necessarily better, just more money! This pen is great for a lot of things. It does beautiful curved lines, calligraphy and can even be used on the side for shading. Experiment and have fun!

The photo on the top right shows me doing curved lines rolling the pen in my fingers to achieve the curve; The middle photo shows a sampling of calligraphy and shading (using the side of the knife); the bottom photo shows cross hatching, a feather and pointillism (don't with the tip of the knife)

# 9 Writing Tip

This pen actually comes in a variety of sizes (small, medium, large, small/medium) and is available in Heavy-Duty and Standard pens. The photo on the left is the F9S. I have found the 9S to  be the most versatile and this is the one I use the most. You can see the difference in the lines from the largest, F9 to the smallest F9XS tip. The smallest size has a sharp tip so it tends to catch on the wood making it difficult to print.  

You can see in the photos on the right that I have done lines on top and then experimented with shading. The 2nd row is pointillism done with each size of the writing tip. The third row is shading done with lines and the last line shows printing done with the writing tip. 

F9 ~ F9S ~F9XS

# 1 Skew Flat

This is available in both standard and heavy-duty pens. These are used for pyrography, cutting and detail work depending on the size. The edge is flat and sharp.

The top and middle photos show two styles of shading done with the skew, hatching and cross-hatching. Varying the lines will give you deeper or lighter shading. The closer together the lines are the darker the shading will be.

You can see the lines on the bottom are clean and crisp but it's not as easy to do curved lines with this skew as it is with the #7 or the #14

# 2 Round Shader

The MC & LC shaders are only available in heavy-duty. These are used for shading. The shading on the right was done with the large round. It shades a larger area than the Medium.  It is not as versatile as the 5MP, but it does cover a larger area a bit faster than the Bent Spear Shader. Very good for burning larger areas but does not get into tight spots.

# 1 & # 7 Skews

The #1 (Fig 1) is similar to the #7 (Fig 2). The #1 Skew has a sharper tip and edge. The #7 Skew is heavier duty. They are great for doing curved or straight lines, hatching and cross hatching, hair and feathers and undercutting burnings to create more depth. You will get crisper lines than using the side of the bent spear shader. Short lines can be achieved by using the nose and longer lines use the flat edge. These tips are heavier-duty than the #1 tips but the # 1 and the # 14 are by far the best sellers. The only # 7 that I stock is the HD7S because the # 1 and # 14's are far more popular.

# 99 Ball Stylus

The ball stylus can be used for so many things such as cursive writing, drawing lines, stippling, shading, etc. As the size of the ball increases in it is more difficult to print or write with it. But the nice thing about the ball stylus is that it glides over the wood so smoothly. Fig 1 shows the 1.5mm and Fig 2 shows the 2.3 mm ball. For photos of more sizes go to the Razertip specialty pen page.

Another important thing to remember when using these is that as the size increases the longer it takes to heat and cool. The larger sizes also requires a higher temperature. 

The photo on top right shows all the sizes of ball stylus pens that are available and compares how they perform doing cursive writing. 

The bottom photo shows how four different sizes perform cursive writing, printing and block letters. The ball stylus does not loose heat like most shaders do so you get more consistent shading.

# 17  Hair/Fur Detailer

This pen is available in standard and heavy-duty pens and sizes from small to large. A popular pen for hair, coarse feather texture, grass but if you are like me you might prefer a multipurpose tip such as side of the bent spear shader. They are great on all sizes of birds, etc.,, depending on the size of the tip you get. I have found that using the side of the bent spear shader can accomplish a similar effect. Using one of the round-heeled knives will also do a good job although you will not achieve the thickness that you can get from the # 17. I usually use the side of my bent spear shader for this type of work and it does a fine job. 

I also experimented and tried doing calligraphy using the tip and it did a really nice job. So my feeling is you can do most of the same things using a round-heeled knife and/or bent spear shader.

# 30 Spoon Shader

The spoon shaders are only available in heavy-duty-style pens and are available in small and medium. The medium is the more popular of the two spoon shaders. They are very versatile and fun to use.

The spoon shaders are shaped somewhat like a bowl and will work on a variety of surfaces including flat, concave and convex which makes it ideal for shading on gourds. They can be used in forward, backward and side to side strokes.

The photos on the right were done with the medium. The burning is done on Italian poplar which produces softer burns rather than crisp burns that you can achieve on harder woods.

#RTF71.04 - Wide-Groove Detail Tip 4mm

The steel blade holds heat beautifully and gives a wide "V" groove texture.

These tips have a steel blade welded onto the end. They can burn a groove up to 3/32” wide.

They take a bit longer to heat up, but once heated they hold their heat better than a wire tip and you will get better heat distribution. They are also much stronger than a plain wire tip.

The 4mm heats up better than the 6 mm & will perform better on gourd & flat burning & is more nimble than the 6 mm.

Heavy duty cord is recommended.

# 5XS & 5S Spear

The spear is a very versatile tip. It is good for General pyrography, feathers and hair detailing, embellishing or decorating.

It is Ideal for miniatures, tagua nuts and very fine detail. The 5S is a favorite for gourders.

The Extra small spear (Fig 1) is ideal for miniatures or very tight spots. The Small Spear (Fig 2)

The 5XS is best suited for VERY fine detail work. In the photos I had the heat set a bit too hot so the  yellowing was visible on each side of the burned lines on the samples on the left. That is a good indicator to turn the heat down a bit & not to linger too much while drawing the line.