Nibsburner, Optima and similar brands of pyrography tools - Woodburner tips, care and maintenance
Learn the proper care for Nibsburner, Optima & similar brands of pyrography tools, tip styles & uses and frequently asked questions
Everything you always wanted to know about Nibsburner pyrography tools, pen uses, care, answers to all your questions & more. If I haven't answered your questions, please contact me.
Most of the information contained in this tutorial can be applied to most brand of detail pens but if you do not have a Razertip (Nibsburner or Optima burner), please be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions for cleaning the pens.
This page was last updated 3/12/16
Care & Feeding of Your Nibsburner & Other Brands of Pyrography Tools
If you own a Nibsburner, Razertip, Optima or Colwood pens with polished tips you have come to the right place for help.
I use Razertip & have sold the Nibsburner, Colwood & Optima pyrography tools & pens so that's what I am going to discuss here but the same information also applies to brands of wood burning pens that have polished tips.
This tutorial will give you all the information you need to maintain your tools so you can get years of enjoyment from them.
Cleaning the Tips is Essential Overall Performance & Longevity of the Tip
The Nibsburner, Razertip & Optima (& some Colwood) pen tips are made from a highly polished nickel/chromium alloy that is designed to flow smoothly over the wood & require less cleaning. These tips need very special care to preserve the finish & ensure its life. Although most brands of tips are made from a nichrome alloy, not all are the exact same proportions of nickel & chromium or processed in the same way.
Pens that are not polished will require cleaning more often than those that are polished. If you are using polished tips, you should probably only need to clean the pens once a day if burning at a moderate temperature on wood without resin or pitch. If you are burning at a high temperature on wood such as pine (not safe really) or on gourds & leather, you might need to clean your pens more frequently. When your burning starts looking muddy or the pen is starting to drag, its time to clean!
Having a clean pen is essential for good burning. A build-up of carbon & other materials will hinder heat transfer & cause the pen to skip on the wood while burning. The ideal method of cleaning the polished tip wood burning pens is to use the cleaning tool made by Razertip or use aluminum oxide & strop it on leather or the hone strop described below.
If you care for the pens properly, they will last for years!
Happy Burning ©!
Proper Care & Use of Pyrography Tools, Handpieces & Polished Tips:
Nibsburner, Optima & Razertip polished tip pens do not need annealing before use. It is unnecessary & NOT recommended to use any annealing process. Just open them up & burn away. Colwood used to recommend annealing their tips but it's best to follow their instructions.
If you can turn the burner down & still do the job do it! Your tips will last longer, you'll have more control, you'll get a cleaner burn, your tip wont build up carbon up as quickly, & its cooler on the fingers. The other advantage to burning at a lower temperature is that you will have more control over your burning!
NEVER use abrasive sand papers, etc. to clean fine detail pens!!!!
If you have a question that I haven't answered here, please contact me.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: What is the difference between a single output burner & a dual output burner?
A: This is an excellent question. There is one major difference & one that is something a lot of people don't even think about.
- The obvious difference is that the single only has one pen output & the dual has two. What this means is that on the dual output burner you can plug in two pens (one on either side) at one time & then you only have to flip a switch to change from one pen to the other
- The not so obvious benefit with the dual outputs (especially those I sell) is that you can have one side set up with an HD cord & the other side with a STD cord. Why is this helpful? Well, let's say you are using an HD cord with an HD pen such as a shader. Typically you will have the heat set a bit higher so when you switch to a standard pen, such as a writing tip, without reducing the heat the pen tip will then become poker hot. So, by having one side set up with a standard cord & one side with a heavy-duty cord you avoid the hassles of having to remember to change the heat setting when you change change from an HD to Std pen or visa versa
- Some brands of burners have additional differences so it's best to refer to the information on the manufacturers website for specifications.
Q: My pens are not getting hot but the light on the burner is on what can the problem be?
A: Most often the problem is the cord. The first thing you want to do is ensure that the cord is connected tightly & is pushed in all the way. If it is & the pen is still not getting hot it could be the cord. If you have a 2nd cord try that one & see if it works. If it doesn't try plugging the pen directly into the burner & see if it heats up. If the pen gets hot then you know you have a problem with the cord. If the burner is relatively new it should be covered under the manufacturer's warranty & you should contact them for a replacement. If it is an older cord you can purchase a new one from my website on the main woodburner page for Nibsburner.
Q: If most of the wood burning pens are made from a nichrome alloy why & how is there a difference?
A: There are a lot of different 'Nichrome' alloys made, & different annealing/hardness options for each one, so each company may use a slightly different material. The difference is also in how they make their tips. Every company uses a different process for finishing their tips so the finish will vary from company to company. Some companies only offer polished tips & some offer unpolished & polished. The polishing process also varies with each company. The more highly polished involves a lot more work.
I started out using a Colwood woodburner with the original unpolished pens many years ago & found that they grabbed the wood & required more frequent cleaning. I also struggled with trying to improve my burning techniques but became very frustrated at being "stuck" in a rut & not being able to get past it. It was not until someone recommended Razertip & Optima pens that I saw the wonders of how great polished tips were & how much I could improve my techniques just by changing from an unpolished tip to a polished tip.
Polished tips burn smoother without grabbing the wood, remain clean longer & are easier to clean. This is not just my hype to sell the pens I sell, it's a proven fact. Just ask anyone who has tried two similar style pens, one unpolished & one polished & they will probably tell you the same thing.
Q: There are so many pens to choose from how do I know what to buy to get started?
A: Over the years I have always recommended people start with just 3 pens, a shader, writer & skew. With these three tip styles you can do just about anything. When I started using & selling Razertip burners & pens over 9 years ago they made some pens for me based on my requirements & specifications. Those have become my favorite pens & are now best sellers. Nibsburner is now making many of the same tips for me. They include my all time favorite the Bent Spear Shader; ball stylus, micro writer or Awl; & a round-heeled knife.
While every artist has their favorites here are the pen styles I usually recommend:
Shaders: My all time favorite shader is a bent spear shader. These are the most versatile shaders I have found. Because of their shape they can get into the tightest spots & can do a lot more than just sahde. I use a bent spear shader for 95% of what I do, including fine detail work, fur, feathers, hair, undercutting, etc.
Writers: I prefer a ball stylus in lieu of a traditional writer but for very fine writing I like a small writing tip such as a micro writer.
Skews/Round-heeled knives: I also prefer a round-heeled knife over a flat skew any day. Why, because you can do more with it than a flat skew. I like these for their versatility. Unlike flat skews, the round-heel makes them more maneuverable for doing curved lines as well as straight lines.
My feeling is that more is not necessarily better. If you can do everything you need to with three pens, why buy more? I am not in this business to sell you things you don't need, it's my goal to help you make sound decisions based on your personal needs & budget.
Q: Are Nibsburner handpieces interchangeable with Optima & Colwood pyrography tools?
A: Absolutely, they are compatible with these brands without any modification or adaptors. It will also work on other brands but just look at the handpiece above & compare with the brand you have to be sure. You might need an adaptor cord but the end of the handpiece will tell you the type of connection you will need.
Q: My pens are not working. The light is on & flickering but I'm getting no heat, what is wrong?
A: Often when you have a very tight connection the cord does not get plugged in all the way. This is one of the most common things I hear & the easiest problem to solve in most cases. Make sure your cord is plugged in all the way by gently pushing it down as far as you can into the burner & do the same thing with the pen side. If this does not solve the problem call me or Nibsburner.
Q: The tips seem to be loosing heat while I'm burning. What am I doing wrong?
A: The answer is you are not doing anything wrong. It is normal for the tips to loose heat as you are working unless you allow the tip to reheat as you see the "color" of the burning lighten. You just need to lift the tip briefly from the wood allowing the tip to reheat then start again. If you are trying to burn a line, just make sure you put the pen down just behind where you left off so you don't end up with a small gap from where you stopped & where you start. These variable temperature burners only take a couple of seconds to reheat.
Q: How do I know when it's time to clean my tips?
A: While it is not set in stone, a good rule of thumb is when your shading/burning starts to look muddy or you start dragging black carbon, it's time to clean! If you burn on higher temperatures you will need to clean more frequently. Some things to consider:
- If you burn on materials such as leather & gourds you will also have to clean more frequently. Let your burning be your guide.
- Unpolished pens do seem to accumulate carbon faster than others even at moderate temperatures. The tips made with a polished nichrome alloy burn cleaner & do not build up carbon as fast when burned at moderate temperatures.
- You will also find that when you burn at higher temperatures the tips will build up carbon faster.
- Burning on woods with sap or pitch will also require more frequent cleaning.
- Remember that keeping the tips clean is essential to clean burning & maintaining the life of the tip. So be sure to clean your tips regularly.
Q: How do I clean my tips?
A: Great question! I will address the proper procedure for cleaning wood burning pen tips that are polished. For pen tips that are not polished please be sure to check with the manufacturer for their recommended methods of cleaning the tips.
If your tips are heavily caked with carbon I recommend you start with a single-edged razor or the Razertip tip cleaner & gently scrape off excess carbon. You can do this while the pen is hot or after it has cooled. For the next step be sure your tip is cool. Once you have cleaned off any excess carbon use a strop (leather or composite) with aluminum oxide powder.
I tend to burn mostly on clean woods that are free of oil so regular cleaning with the strop & aluminum oxide is all I need to keep my tips clean & carbon free. When burning on gourds or leather I start with a single-edged razor.
How to use the strop & aluminum oxide:
You can use a leather or composite strop to clean & polish your tips. Most important is to make sure your tip is cool.
Add just a TINY pinch of aluminum oxide to one edge of the strop & run the tip across the powder just a few times, then on a clean area of the strop run the tip over the clean area to remove the remaining powder & gently polish the tip. You need to do this only a few strokes. I then wipe it on my denim jeans (you may want to get a patch of denim to keep on your work area) to clean off excess polish. Remember you're really just polishing, so you don't need to try to remove all the discoloration. These tips stay cleaner than unpolished so if you are burning at a moderate temperature on wood you can probably burn longer between cleanings. If you are burning on gourds or leather you will need to clean more frequently.
When burning on gourds, leather & certain woods you will probably have to clean the tips more frequently.
Remember that proper cleaning maintains the life of the tips, makes burning easier, will make your finished burning cleaner & keeps them in factory-new condition. If you clean the tips regularly you will not have much difficulty maintaining them.
Q: How often should I sharpen my pen tips, & what should I use to do it with?
A: Usually, only once or twice a year depending on usage. An overnight soak in oven cleaner can sometimes take off heavy carbon deposits, but be careful that you do not soak the brass or silver solder (read the directions for your oven cleaner to see what metals it will safely clean). To determine if your tip needs to be sharpened or "re-honed", examine your tips under a magnifying glass. If the edge of the tip looks rounded or there is not a well defined angle, you could probably re-sharpen the tip. BTW, over buffing (using a "leather power strop" wheel for example) will prematurely lead to the metal "rolling over" the edge, causing your tip to get kind of a rounded edge. To sharpen your pen, use a fine stone, (or if need be, 800 or higher grit wet & dry sand paper). Sharpen your pen tips at a 30 to 35 degree angle. Do NOT sharpen them at a sharper angle, as you will then carve too deep, & have problems in the painting stage of your carvings. After sharpening polish with the aluminum oxide polishing compound on a strop.
Q: Do I need to anneal my pens?
A: Some brands do recommend it but you should NEVER turn your power supply on high to "anneal" pens with polished tips. This will just lead to premature oxidation, & may damage some of the smaller standard style tips. My pens are ready to use right out of the plastic tube.
Q: My tip is a bit too sharp & needs to be bent a bit more. Can I do it myself?
A: Yes, you can. If you want to "modify" a pen, such as the Bent Spear shader, you would need to buff the lower edge of each tip so that it is rounder using a felt buffing wheel & buffing compound. You can then re-bend the tip angle using a smooth-jaw pliers. It is best to bend it cold - just be gentle & don't bend too quickly. Despite what some people say, you should NOT bend the tips when they are "poker hot".
Q: How can I make the tips last longer?
A: To make your tips last longer: NEVER use sandpaper of any grit to remove carbon. I have seen these tips last well over 10 years. In fact, I still have my original bent spear shader made as a prototype when I first started using Razertip & it's well over 12 years old & it still looks like new. Even with constant use, when properly cared for they can last a very long time!
Some tips (pun intended) to preserve the life of the tips:
- For best results, longest tip life, reduced carbon build-up, & maximum comfort, always use the lowest heat setting that will do the job.
- Burning at lower temperatures will keep carbon build-up off of the tip in the first place, & keeps the tips from oxidizing.
- Put your pens back into their pen tubes after each use, a pen tip hitting the floor is the most common type of tip damage.
- Stick a small amount of foam or Styrofoam into the pen tube's cap if you are transporting your pen a lot. It will keep it from breaking from being tossed around.
Q: The tips on some of my pens keep breaking, what am I doing wrong?
A: One of the most common problems I hear about is this. This is a common problem with people who are heavy handed, new to burning or use too much pressure on the pens, especially if you have been using a single temperature burner & upgrade to a detail burner. Keep in mind that you do not need a death grip on the pen, lighten up on the grip & let the pen do the work. But even if you haven't done any of this & your pen breaks remember it comes with a warranty & even after the warranty runs out you can still have your tip fixed or replaced.
The other common problem is that many people just burn with the tip rather than the entire edge. Be sure to use the edge & do not use a lot of pressure. Let the pen do the work.
Q: Should I get interchangeable tips or fixed-tip pens?
A: Excellent question! I recommend & sell the only fixed-tip handpieces & here's some reasons why:
- Fixed-tip handpieces operate cooler than interchangeable-tip Pen
- Because the fixed-tips are welded in, they provide better control for more precise burning.
- Interchangeable-tip Pen are designed primarily for intermittent or short-term use. They require regular maintenance to work effectively. Every 6-8 hours of use (or more if the pen is malfunctioning) the wire tip (connector) should be removed, cleaned with steel wool or ScotchbriteTM pads, bent at the back of each tip post, & re-inserted so they fit as snug as possible.
- Interchangeable tips are inconvenient to change & a non-welded tip can have bad intermittent conductive properties between the nichrome tip & the brass carrier. These conditions are high heat, electricity, & two dissimilar metal alloys (a very bad combination for preventing corrosion).
Although some brands have friction fitted "brass to brass" connectors, they too will eventually suffer from corrosion, & eventually, have poor intermittent conductive properties. Razertip interchangeable tips are changed by inserting the tip wires into screws & tightening them which can be a nuisance when you have momentum going on a wood burning project. Some brands such as Colwood require that you use a tool to pull them off which can also be a nuisance.
Q: I prefer Interchangeable tips, what can I do with them until they cool down?
A: If you have a craft style burner you need to leave it in the burner until it is cool otherwise you will risk stripping the threads of the tip. This is especially important because the newer brass tips made in China are thinner & not as sturdy as the ones made in the USA. Regardless of where they were made Brass is a soft metal & you risk damaging the threads if you attempt to remove the tip while it is still hot.
If you are using a variable temperature burner such as Razertip, Colwood, Nibsburner, etc. here are some suggestions where to put the tips until they are completely cool:
- A Pyrex custard cup
- The flat lid from a used canning jar
- The metal lid from a glass jar such as baby food jar or apple sauce
- A trivet
- A baking sheet
- Make sure where ever you put it that it is out of the way so nobody will get burned
Q: Some of my pens get very hot & burn my fingers?
A: Because our art form involves using heat to make images & detail, our challenge is always to get as much heat to the tip as possible (good heat) without that same heat building up in the pen & affecting the fingers (bad heat). Every user has different needs & will therefore have a different experience. Posting problems & possible solutions on forums like this are great ways to share information & I am always interested to see the many creative ways people go about overcoming challenges. Hand piece heating is a much more complex issue than most people realize, & there are many factors that go into how hot your pen gets.
These are a few suggestions to help ease the pain!
- Don't hold the pen close to the tip. When holding the pens, move your hand back slightly away from the tip. The closer your hand is to the tip, the hotter it will be.
- Work at an angle so the heat is deflected away from your hand. Try working on a drafting table or something like the pyrography tables we used to sell. This not only keeps the pen cooler but it is more comfortable & will also help prevent carpal tunnel syndrome.
- Use a vented handpiece which stays cooler than a solid handpiece.
Here are a few factors concerning the "hot fingers" issue:
- Power & current. Hot-wire tools are designed to
operate with a primary voltage of around 115-117 volts.
If your wall voltage is higher (say 120-125 volts), you'll
get more heat at the tip. More heat at the tip usually means
a hotter pen body. All hot wire burners convert the wall
voltage to a lower output voltage. Razertip power supplies
drop the voltage to 2 volts or less. Razertip pens are designed
to operate at 2 volts or less. Some burners (i.e.:
Detail Master & Burn Master etc.) operates at around
3 volts. This gives them more power, but can be problematic
& cord heat. Razertip pens tend to get quite a bit hotter on the fingers when used on a 3 volt power supply. They perform best on a Razertip power supply. It is generally true that most pens will perform best on their own power supply.
- Operator technique. I always recommend using the lowest heat setting that will get the job done - in other words, if you can turn the heat down & still do the job, DO IT. In addition, hold your pen at an angle so the heat from the tip can rise into the air, not into the pen body & your fingers. Moving your fingers back a bit from the tip can help sometimes, too. If you must use high heat settings for long periods, I recommend getting a second pen & switching back-&-forth when one gets uncomfortable. This will be easier on your fingers & on the pen & tip. In the long run it will be less costly as your pens & tips will last longer. Also if you ever damage a tip & need replacement you have a spare to use while the damaged one is being repaired.
- Operator sensitivity. Some people have very sensitive
fingers. The original standard pens some people would complain
after a short period of time that the pen was uncomfortable
yet other people had no problems. Now both Nibsburner &
Razertip have come out with new vented pens to keep the
pen handle cooler. Yes, the vented pens can still get hot
on the fingers, but they take much longer to heat &
they cool very quickly. It is interesting to note that
some users, like me, use Razertip & Nibsburner pens
for long periods without hot Pen
concerns while others experience discomfort. Another possibility is that I use a lighter touch with my pens & as I tell my students, "you don't need a death grip on the pens". Let the pen do the work, not your hands.
- Pen/tip design & construction. Nibsburner has very deliberately chosen the design & material for their pens & tips to give us the best performance possible, taking into account the primary intended use for the tools. Their tools are primarily for finesse & delicate work. The solid-tip burners, such as the Wall Lenk & Walnut Hollow are intended for the heavy work & compliment a hot-wire tool or as refer to them as detail burners. Different tip types heat differently. tip length is also a factor in pen heat. The longer the tip, the cooler the pen. Nibsburner & Razertip makes their tips the length they are because that's what the customers have wanted. They like working close to the burning surface. They can make tips longer & have done so on request. The thicker grip can help, too (see below for information on removing & replacing the grips). Testing has shown us that cork & closed-cell foam have similar insulative properties, with uncompressed foam performing better than cork. However, some users grip their pen tighter than others, & in compressing the foam grip, reduce its insulating abilities. If you can loosen your grasp on the grip it may help. Also when grips get old or have been used a lot they flatten out & should be replaced. Most of my customers have indicated that they prefer the foam grips, but if cork works better for you then go for it. One word of caution, whether you use a glove, or cover the pen with something to insulate it: don't let the pen get too hot or you may damage it internally. Give it a regular chance to cool.
- The pen cord can also make a big difference. Nibsburner
makes a light duty 18 gauge (I do not recommend or sell),
standard (super-flexible) 14 gauge cord for regular work, &
a HD 16 gauge cord for heavier work. The HD cord is
always your best choice for hotter burning & here's
why - When burning, you have to consider two heat factors: Ambient
tip temperature is the temperature of the tip when it's
not in contact with the work surface. Working temperature
is the temperature of the tip when it is in contact with
the work surface (i.e.: wood). When you use a heavier
16 gauge cord it is possible for more electrical current
to flow to the tip, resulting in not only more tip heat,
but in faster tip heat recovery. In order to burn at, say,
700 degrees operating temperature, you would require an
ambient temperature of perhaps 900-1000o with
an 18 gauge cord, but only around 750-800o with
a 16 gauge cord. The 16 gauge cord will not only perform
better, but will result in the Pen
staying cooler for a longer period. However, it's a bit heavier to hold, & there are times when a slow tip heat recovery is actually desirable (certain shading techniques for example) & an 18 gauge cord is preferred. I don't carry the 14 gauge cord because it would be mostly used by children who will burn at lower temperatures.
- Ambient air temperature, humidity, & air movement can all affect pen heat. Working in a hot, stuffy room with high humidity, your pen will get hot faster than if you're working in a cool, dry room with a bit of air movement. You might also use a small fan to "pull" air away. Finally, there is always the possibility that there is something wrong with a pen or tip. Contact the manufacturer directly if in doubt.
- One way of keeping the handpiece cooler is to work at an angle such as a slanted table like a drafting table. I also recommend using a cooler temperature & layering until you get the depth of tone you want to achieve. This gives you more control & preserves the life of the tips by not using excessively hot temperatures.
Q: I use a Detailmaster burner & my pens get too hot what can I do?
A: The Burnmaster (& Detailmaster) woodburner operates at 3 volts instead of the 2 volts that many other burners operate at. This means they have more power (not necessarily good or necessary) & because of that many brands of pens (such as Optima & Razertip) will get hotter when used with either of these burners & can burn out the tips. You can do a number of things to help keep the pens cooler.
- Reduce the heat setting on the burner to avoid burning out the pens.
- If you are using a Colwoodr Nibsburner or other pens with similar connectors you do not need to do anything on the Burnmaster but you will need to use an adaptor cord to connect the most US brands of pens to the Detailmaster. I
- If you are using a Razertip pen I recommend you use an adaptor cord rather than an adaptor
- Burn at an angle so that the heat is deflected away from your hand.
- Use a pen that is vented.
Q: What do you mean when you say they (HD pens) perform better with an HD cord?
A: They heat up quicker & run cooler on the fingers with a HD cord.
Q. My burner won't make a dark mark on wood until its set at "5" or higher? Why?
A. Most burners are designed to give a very broad range of heat. The lower half of the dial is used for waxes, plastics, or for detailing wood without leaving a brown mark. The top half of the dial provides enough heat to scorch wood. It is possible that if you have the burner set at a mid range such as "5" or higher & you are not getting any heat there is a problem with the burner or cord. Before contacting Nibsburner try plugging the pen directly into the burner & set it at "5" or higher & test it on a piece of scrap wood. If it is making a "dark mark" then the problem is with the cord. If you still aren't getting the heat to the pen call Nibsburner & discuss the problem with them.
Q. Sometimes my burner works great at a certain heat setting, & the next day I have to use a different setting to get the same burn. Why is this?
When the voltage from a wall plug changes, the temperature of the tip will change with it. Most burners are set to perform optimally at their rated voltage. I have seen wall outlet voltages vary by over 20 volts. Wall outlet voltage can also change depending on time of day & demand on the system especially in some geographic areas where there is a problem with low voltage.
Q. What is the main difference between the single output & dual output burners?
The power unit in most brands is basically the same except that the dual output allows you to connect two pens at the same time (they cannot be used to burn at the same time) but all you have to do is flip a switch to change pens.
There are some brands, such as the Nibsburner Best of Show that has two heat controls so you can set each one separately so when you change pens the temperature is already pre-set to the temperature you need.
Check each manufacturers specifications on their dual output burners to see other differences.
Broken, damaged or defective burner, cords or fixed-tip?
Don't worry! Nibsburner pyrography systems are covered under warranty for 2 years & most tips can be fixed or replaced. If you have any problems with your Nibsburner tools please contact Nibsburner directly.
Choosing the right tip style
I hope that the guide below helps you choose the right Nibsburner pens for your needs. This guide will show you some of the things you can do with these pens. It's not always easy for people to visualize in their minds what can be done with each pen just by looking at the photo & description of possible uses. The description of uses is also just a guide & not necessarily all that you can do with each one. The bottom line here is EXPERIMENT & have fun!!!!
I will start with the most popular pens (shown with an asterisk) that I sell & the most versatile. I will then work my way down through many of the other pens by Nibsburner. Many of Nibsburner's tip styles are available in a variety of sizes.
Keep in mind that everyone burns differently & that's fine because if we were all the same it would be a very boring world. They have different styles of burning, prefer different pens & this is just a guide, not the final word on what's good for you. I was taught in art school not to outline my work because there are no lines in nature & I don't outline but instead use my shading to create the natural edge. I prefer using the bent spear shader because it's more versatile but others prefer the spoon or round shader. It all boils down to what you prefer & what works for you, not me or the next guy! Don't take my word for it or someone else, try it yourself, experiment & make your own decisions.
I might also add here that I recommend fixed-tip pens rather
than interchangeable tips. There are several reasons:
fixed-tip pens get you closer to your work so you have better
control; you get better heat distribution; fixed-tip
pens are easier & faster to change & interchangeable tips are primarily intended just for intermittent burning. Since I cater to pyrographers who use burners on a more regular basis I primarily sell the fixed-tip pens.
Replacement of Broken Tips
Both Nibsburner & Detailmaster have gone out of business. Some of the other manufacturers of burners do not offer re-tipping service for their pens or for other brands but Razertip will re-tip all brands of pens for very reasonable prices. Please go to the Razertip tutorial page & scroll down the page to the FAQ's. There is one that addresses the issue of replacing tips.
Disclaimer: Some of the information contained on this page is based on public domain information that is believed to be reliable & information used in my classes. The information in these tutorials is furnished free of charge. The information is to be used at an individual's own risk. Nedra Denison and Sawdust Connection makes no warranty as to the completeness or accuracy thereof.
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